Fossil Fashion: The Environmental Impact of Polyester in the Fashion Industry

Changing Markets Foundation launched a critical report in February 2021, The Fossil Fashion, which highlights the fundamental dependency of the fashion industry on oil extraction. The report underscores the critical role played by fossil fuels in the modern production of fibers and the growing environmental impact of this practice.

The RISE of Polyester and Its Reliance on Fossil Fuels

The production of polyester has grown ninefold since the 1970s and is currently the fastest-growing segment in fashion manufacturing. Polyester's popularity is driven by its low cost and the flexibility of the fiber as a material. However, the Fossil Fashion report reveals that artificial fibers now account for 1.35% of global oil consumption, which is expected to more than double in the coming years.

Mixed Fibers and Waste Control Challenges

Polyester is not only extensively used on its own but also blended with other materials, most commonly cotton and polyester. This technique complicates waste management efforts. Mixed fibers cannot be easily separated for recycling or composting, leading to significant challenges in waste management and disposal.

Microfiber Pollution and Ocean Impact

During the lifecycle of garments, microfibers from polyester are a major pollutant. After washing, these toxic microfibers end up in the oceans, contributing to the growing problem of plastic pollution. The report estimates that garments release approximately half a million tonnes of microfibers into the oceans annually, equivalent to more than 50 billion plastic bottles.

Recycling Challenges and Plastic Production Growth

Recycling alone is not sufficient to address the issues of fast fashion or the exponential growth in the use of synthetic fibers. Currently, less than 1% of garments are recycled to make new clothing, and the share of recycled polyester is declining. By 2030, the share of recycled polyester is projected to be mere 7.9% of standard polyester production.

Intersectionality and Global Perspectives

The Fossil Fashion report is criticized for a lack of global labor and class perspectives. This overlook can project implicit blame on certain populations for the pollution. For instance, the report opens with a juxtaposition of images depicting conspicuous consumption and environmental degradation. This visual narrative can be interpreted as an implicit critique of economic inequality and consumption patterns contributed to by global fashion industries.

Conclusion: Embracing Sustainable Alternatives

As the fashion industry grapples with the high environmental cost of its practices, embracing sustainable alternatives becomes imperative. Innovations in biodegradable fibers, enhanced recycling technologies, and a more responsible approach to production can help mitigate the industry's impact on the environment. Policy changes and consumer awareness are crucial in driving these positive changes.

Keywords: Fossil Fashion, Polyester, Environmental Impact